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 Code 100 and Code 83 interchangeable use
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MLRR

Posted - 2004 September 28 :  7:38:59 PM  Show Profile  Visit MLRR's Homepage
I don't have much experience with code 83 track but I am planning a layout that requires code 83 superswitches along with other code 100 track. Do the two tracks go together? My question is if trains will smoothly make the transition from code 100 to code 83 easily. My concern is the rails. I'm assumin that the rail design is similar and the only differences are the color of the ites and the ends of each track section.

Thanks for your help in advance!!
~Kyle

The Mary Lindsay Railroad - Featuring Amtrak Model Trains
Your HO Rail Journey Starts Here.........

www.marylindsayrr.vze.com (Last Update:1/30/12)

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charlief

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  12:40:00 AM  Show Profile
Walthers-Shinohara makes 6" long transition track. The catalog number for code 83 to code 100 is 948-897. Compared to regular track, it is rather pricey.

MicroEngineering makes transition rail joiners. The plastic insulated type for code 100 to code 83 are catalog number 255-26001 and are sold in lots of 4 pair.



Edited by - charlief on 2004 September 29 12:45:33 AM

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MLRR

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  01:02:12 AM  Show Profile  Visit MLRR's Homepage
thanks for the help charlief!

~Kyle

The Mary Lindsay Railroad - Featuring Amtrak Model Trains
Your HO Rail Journey Starts Here.........

www.marylindsayrr.vze.com (Last Update:1/30/12)

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riogrande

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  01:24:14 AM  Show Profile
You can make your own transition joiners by modifying Atlas joiners and it will be WAY cheaper. Simply cut a wide slot in the top of the middle of the Atlas joiner while leaving the flat bottom intact. Then you can bend a "step" into the middle. That way when you put the two different size track together, you can adjust so the surface of the rails match. Soldering this joint will keep it from shifting. Be sure to use heat sinks and flux to avoid melting ties.

Rio Grande - The Action Road
Atlas forum member since 1994

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Silicon Revolution

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  3:25:20 PM  Show Profile  Visit Silicon Revolution's Homepage
quote:
Originally posted by riogrande

You can make your own transition joiners by modifying Atlas joiners and it will be WAY cheaper. Simply cut a wide slot in the top of the middle of the Atlas joiner while leaving the flat bottom intact. Then you can bend a "step" into the middle. That way when you put the two different size track together, you can adjust so the surface of the rails match. Soldering this joint will keep it from shifting.
Forum member Jason Boche has done just that, and still has the pictures on his server. Hopefully he won't mind me showing them to you.

The necessary materials: rail joiners, Dremel tool, and a cutoff wheel.
http://www.boche.net/trains/83-100_joiners/000_0271.JPG

Use a scrap section of rail to hold the joiner in place.
http://www.boche.net/trains/83-100_joiners/000_0272.JPG

Use the Dremel to carve a notch in the ribs of the joiner. Always wear safety glasses, and avoid having any body parts in the plane of the spinning disk, so that if it shatters, you won't have to remove any shrapnel from your flesh (a trip to the ER negates any monetary savings from making your own transition joiners).
http://www.boche.net/trains/83-100_joiners/000_0273.JPG

The finished product. Jason was careful not to cut all the way through.
http://www.boche.net/trains/83-100_joiners/000_0275.JPG
http://www.boche.net/trains/83-100_joiners/000_0276.JPG
http://www.boche.net/trains/83-100_joiners/000_0277.JPG

The joiner installed on C100 and C83 track:
http://www.boche.net/trains/83-100_joiners/000_0278.JPG

Put a little bend in the bottom of the joiner so the heights match:
http://www.boche.net/trains/83-100_joiners/000_0279.JPG

Voila! Code 100 and code 83 track living in harmony.
http://www.boche.net/trains/83-100_joiners/000_0282.JPG

Thanks to Jas in advance for taking the pictures.



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jwmurrayjr

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  3:47:57 PM  Show Profile  Visit jwmurrayjr's Homepage
Remember that Atlas code 83 and code 100 are the same height at the rail head. The ties on the code 83 are thicker in order to make the two compatible in height. That's also why the Atlas 100/83 joiners work. That's also one reason why the code 83 ties look better (The cross-section).

Jim Murray
The San Juan Southern RR

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Orsonroy

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  3:54:33 PM  Show Profile
Micro Engineering makes code 100 to code 83 transitional rail joiners.

Or you could do what I do when mixing codes 55, 70, 75 and 83: lay the track, and then sand down the tops of the rails. It's a lot faster than messing around squishing and soldering standard joiners (I do solder joints, but after the track is laid and tested)


Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP in Peoria, 1950.
"Steam: the only choice!"

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Don Gibson

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  4:30:13 PM  Show Profile
COMBINING Code 100 and 83 track together. TWO ways to go.

CONVENTIONAL:Rail tops (and inside railhead surfaces) have different dimensions.
Adapting rail joiners may align tops but not insides for flanges.
Shinohara / Walthers 100/83 transition track pieces cost $5-$6 but does both.
M.E's Plasic transitional joiners will align, but insulates the two rails, and break easily.

ATLAS: code 100 and 83 are both made to the the same height (.100")to allow direct connection (no adapters). CAVEAT: Atlas' Code 83 track is a HYBRID and as it comes, will not match any one else's Code 83 product. GOOD for beginners, BAD for upgrading.


Don Gibson
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DABXKIDD2122

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  4:31:34 PM  Show Profile  Visit DABXKIDD2122's Homepage
Walthers transition track is good. I use it from Code 100 to 83.


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DABXKIDD2122

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  4:34:01 PM  Show Profile  Visit DABXKIDD2122's Homepage
Even though most of my track is Code 100, I use code 83 for the side tracks.


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Update Coming Soon
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riogrande

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  5:16:14 PM  Show Profile
Silicon,

A picture is worth a thousand words, or in this case 9 pictures

That is exactly what I did, but it wasn't an original idea! I just copied the package of commercial joiners I bought once. I said, I can make those and save allot of money too!

I don't see any point in buying the transition track for the price they charge, unless you are used to only sectional track.


Rio Grande - The Action Road
Atlas forum member since 1994

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jasonboche

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  6:13:42 PM  Show Profile
Another tip: If using the method in Silicon Revolution's post above, spray paint the scrap piece of rail that you will use to hold the joiner while cutting the joiner. A coat of paint on the scrap rail will help keep the joiner on the scrap rail snug. If you don't paint the scrap rail, the dremel cutoff disk will pull that joiner off right away while you're cutting it. The friction of the dry paint will keep the joiner on pretty good. I found this out by accident when using a scrap piece of WEATHERED/PAINTED rail as my holder.

Jas



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MLRR

Posted - 2004 September 29 :  8:00:08 PM  Show Profile  Visit MLRR's Homepage
Thanks guys!! I like your ideas. The only reason why I have questions about the transistion is that I would like to use #6 superswitch turnouts on the layout for my interlockings which are only found in code 83 track. If the rails are the same height then I don't see too much trouble with my rolingstock derailing if the interlockins will be on straight-away areas.

How does that sound?

Thanks again guys!!


~Kyle

The Mary Lindsay Railroad - Featuring Amtrak Model Trains
Your HO Rail Journey Starts Here.........

www.marylindsayrr.vze.com (Last Update:1/30/12)

Country: USA | Posts: 934 Go to Top of Page
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