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 modeling sidewalks
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drewthomas

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  08:49:48 AM  Show Profile
Hi,
I am trying to decide how to design my streets and sidewalks. Does anybody have any tips/pics of a good process of modeling sidewalks? I would like to use the Woodland Scenics products.
I have noticed in a lot of layouts that the buildings look like they "sit" higher up then the ground/curb How is that done too?

Thanks
Art

Country: USA | Posts: 36

Spookshow

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  09:08:19 AM  Show Profile  Visit Spookshow's Homepage
The Woodland Scenics "Road System" is pretty simple. You demark your street layer with their Paving Tape, dollop in the Smooth-It (plaster) and then use the supplied spreader to get a smooth surface (and if necessary, a bit of sanding once it dries). For a sidewalk/foundation layer, you simply add another layer on top of the street layer.



Cheers,
-Mark



Dear Atlas - Please Make More DME/ICE Models!

Country: USA | Posts: 5559 Go to Top of Page

drewthomas

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  10:03:37 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Spookshow

The Woodland Scenics "Road System" is pretty simple. You demark your street layer with their Paving Tape, dollop in the Smooth-It (plaster) and then use the supplied spreader to get a smooth surface (and if necessary, a bit of sanding once it dries). For a sidewalk/foundation layer, you simply add another layer on top of the street layer.



Cheers,
-Mark
Thanks Mark
I am still a little confused on the "add another layer on top of the street layer" Could you please explain

Thanks
Art





Country: USA | Posts: 36 Go to Top of Page

Roger Perkins

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  10:43:03 AM  Show Profile  Visit Roger Perkins's Homepage
I have used polystyrene plastic sheets for sidewalks and streets. There are specific sheets of material labelled as sidewalk.
They are of a thickness to create a curb effect.
There are also some thin, narrow strips of plastic of appropriate width for streets from a couple of the more prominent brands that work well for streets and can be painted in a flat, concrete color or tarnish black for asphalt.

I also have used brick sheeting for some city streets; I am still using some on the current layout that I have recycled for about 25+ years as my layout was moved and rebuilt.

I have used the W/S tape, but elected to use light weight spackling compound for the actual road or street area. Spackling is much less expensive than the W/S product. I felt that the resulting streets or roads were much thicker than I wanted. I found it took some practice and skill to achieve a smooth finished surface.

I did have satisfactory results for "dirt roads" with the W/S product tape; I finished them by painting them earth color and shifting very fine sand, such as that used for sand art while the paint was still wet.



Country: USA | Posts: 3351 Go to Top of Page

Spookshow

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  11:37:39 AM  Show Profile  Visit Spookshow's Homepage
After you've put down a base (street level) layer, you put paving tape on top of that, demarking where you want sidewalks and foundations. Then repeat the same procedure as with the street level layer (pour in the smooth-it, level it, let dry, sand it). The second layer is higher than the first layer, creating curbs.

In the above picture, you can see my freshly laid sidewalks and building foundations (the darker areas) on top of the street level layer.

Cheers,
-Mark




Dear Atlas - Please Make More DME/ICE Models!

Edited by - Spookshow on 2009 July 15 11:40:07 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 5559 Go to Top of Page

Rossford Yard

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  12:05:29 PM  Show Profile
There are plenty of plastic sidewalks on the market, but the names escape me now. Much easier than molding them.

Ditto for roads. I have used WS and the results are good, but with paint, a sheet of about 1.5-2" wide sheet styrene, painted, usually works. You can also use Easy Streets and similar. I know many like the look of plaster roads, so I am not discouragin that by any means.


Jeff

GM of the Indiana Harbor Belt - The "Expanding Belt Line"


Country: USA | Posts: 3470 Go to Top of Page

wm3798

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  2:32:42 PM  Show Profile  Visit wm3798's Homepage


Sheet styrene streets, and Evergreen scribed "Tile" for sidewalks. I mask the striping using 1 pt. graphics tape.

Lee


Mill Street Studios - Custom N Scale Offerings.

www.wmrywesternlines.net

Country: USA | Posts: 4416 Go to Top of Page

MichaelWinicki

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  4:28:21 PM  Show Profile
My thought process on this whole road building thing is that the more products you use to build and cover your roads– the better. Just for the purpose of trying to diversify the look of your layout. Woodland Scenics, styrene, joint-compound, pre-made roads. I think they're all fair game.

Here's a road that I'm working on that's 1/16 balsawood...



The sidewalk is 1/16 balsa also.

Here's a foam core road on my work bench that I'm messing around with...



I have a spot on the layout where the road is going to have to be movable in order to reach some staging trackage. That's why the balsa wood or foam core are being considered.

But elsewhere, it's going to be a combination of those products I listed earlier. Travel around... Roads come in a wide array of "looks". And I think using a variety of road construction methods and coverings is one way to make each of your roads unique.



Country: USA | Posts: 1773 Go to Top of Page

gbcaboose

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  4:43:36 PM  Show Profile
This video of a downtown scene has some of the best streets and sidewalks I ever seen. They talk about them briefly but they look fantastic. They're HO scale but you still might be able to pick up some different details thet you normaly don't see on layouts.

Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lyk8CqFPmc4


Mike

Alabama Gulfcoast Railroad (AGR), King of the restinsled boxcar

Country: USA | Posts: 154 Go to Top of Page

nkalanaga

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  7:15:28 PM  Show Profile
I used plain styrene sheet for the sidewalks, and scribed my own lines. For curbs, a square strip the same thickness as the sheet worked fine, and gave me a nice, even edge. Most of my sidewalks are 0.04 inch sheet, for about 6.5 inch high curbs. You can adjust the thickness to suit the region/era you're modeling.

N. Kalanaga
Be well.

Country: USA | Posts: 4452 Go to Top of Page

GOLDENSPIKE

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  8:11:31 PM  Show Profile
I worked for a run down company in an older run down part of town
and each building had its own style of front sidewalk - so anything
goes. Just make it look run down enough.


Ron S.
"How many model trains is enough ??...a few more."
(a take on a J.D. Rockafeller quote.)

Country: USA | Posts: 1252 Go to Top of Page

nkalanaga

Posted - 2009 July 15 :  8:45:26 PM  Show Profile
That would also be my advice, as even a well maintained older neighborhood would likely have varying styles of sidewalk. In my case, I only have one block of sidewalk, and it's in a business district on a state highway, so the single style doesn't look out of place.

If I modeled more of the town, I would use other styles. The town I'm loosely following has numerous variations, but each block is generally similar, unless one of the buildings is obviously newer/older.


N. Kalanaga
Be well.

Country: USA | Posts: 4452 Go to Top of Page
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