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 1960's Athearn 0-4-2T Repower
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Author Previous Topic: Athearn Celcon handrails Topic Next Topic: Atlas 72 centerbeam and other flats  

Benny

Posted - 2009 May 29 :  10:34:04 PM  Show Profile
I'm gearing up to repower an Athearn 0-4-2T, at minimum a new motor and a bracket to hold in the motor.

Once the can is in, I want to put in a decoder.

The part that is bugging me is that I can't find the power route in this thing. It seems every part is cast metal except the insulator under the weight, which has a brass contact place that supposedly connects to a post.

Before I tear it apart, anybody familiar with what insulate the left half from the right? I'm probably going to drill two holes and tap in leads for brass connectors for the decoder power input/output.

Edited by - Benny on 2009 May 29 10:37:18 PM

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ACL1099

Posted - 2009 May 30 :  09:30:22 AM  Show Profile
Your URL is broken so I can't see it. But I'd look for one set of drivers to have some thin insulation between the wheel and tire or the wheel and axle and to pick up current from wipers someplace. On the other hand, I've heard these things were freaks and maybe they're not built in a conventional method. Get us some pix and let's see what the forum braintrust can conjure up.


Country: Western Samoa | Posts: 1626 Go to Top of Page

Benny

Posted - 2009 May 30 :  3:48:48 PM  Show Profile
That link went to my persoanl page, it was on the university server. Great things graduation does!!!

Here's a diagram I found. This one doesn't HAVE wipers of any sort!!
http://hoseeker.net/assemblyexplosionAthearn/Assembly%20Explosion%20Athearn%200-4-2T.jpg

It appears there is a right and a left on the frame. I just can't find where the isolating piece is between the two - everything appears to be metal.

Mine is a slightly different variat where wires were up/down graded to a single brass strip taht would attach to a morot lead, the light, and to that stumb where the screw is holding the wires in the picture. I need to start the cleaning process.



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Edwardsutorik

Posted - 2009 May 30 :  3:55:42 PM  Show Profile
I'm looking at mine, and it appears to me that there is no insulation in the wheels. I think the electrical separation between each side is done by having a plastic axle--sort of like current Athearn diesels. I've got the instructions that come with it (copies available at www.hoseeker.net). The motor wire is screwed onto a boss on the left side of the underframe. I'm going to assume that the underframe is electrically split between left and right and that the motor is "grounded" to the right side (otherwise it would short the left and right drivers and the loco wouldn't work--mine does). I'm not going to take mine apart to investigate further, but I don't see how it could be anything else. I'll note that right now, the center of gravity for this loco is pretty much at the rear driving axle. If it shifts to the rear of that location much, you'll be sad. Forward would be better, of course.

Ed



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Edwardsutorik

Posted - 2009 May 30 :  4:01:08 PM  Show Profile
Benny,

You responded while I was typing my entry. Hmmm, yours is newer than mine. I agree, it looks like you're going to have to do some drilling and tapping. May I note that the first tap I ever broke was in a bit of Irv Athearn's "potmetal". I hope you don't experience the resulting sadness (and more) that I did.

Ed



Country: USA | Posts: 1671 Go to Top of Page

Benny

Posted - 2009 May 30 :  5:01:00 PM  Show Profile
That is ouch - the front driver is the geared power driver as it is...

There is room in the smokebox, so I'll keep this in mind.

I've never seen electrical isolation construction like this...!



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Benny

Posted - 2009 May 30 :  5:02:38 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Edwardsutorik

Benny,

You responded while I was typing my entry. Hmmm, yours is newer than mine. I agree, it looks like you're going to have to do some drilling and tapping. May I note that the first tap I ever broke was in a bit of Irv Athearn's "potmetal". I hope you don't experience the resulting sadness (and more) that I did.

Ed



I'm going to keep this in mind...Cutting oil will have to be on order!!



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Bearcreekwest

Posted - 2009 May 30 :  7:38:12 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Edwardsutorik

Benny,

You responded while I was typing my entry. Hmmm, yours is newer than mine. I agree, it looks like you're going to have to do some drilling and tapping. May I note that the first tap I ever broke was in a bit of Irv Athearn's "potmetal". I hope you don't experience the resulting sadness (and more) that I did.

Ed


Taps will break easily if not used carefully. First, of course, is that the hole being tapped should be drilled with the correct drill for the tap being used. Second, when using the tap, it is best to cut a few threads, back the tap out to clear the shavings and clean the hole, tap a few more threads, repeat the process. When trying to thread the entire depth of the hole, the tap can bind and break.


Don

PRRT&HS 7555
OERM 2133
SASME

Country: USA | Posts: 1551 Go to Top of Page

Benny

Posted - 2009 May 30 :  8:47:38 PM  Show Profile
Thanks, Don. The advice is well recieved.


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ACL1099

Posted - 2009 May 30 :  9:52:44 PM  Show Profile
I should have known that an Athearn steam engine from that era would be completely unconventional!


Country: Western Samoa | Posts: 1626 Go to Top of Page

Edwardsutorik

Posted - 2009 May 31 :  4:16:32 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by ACL1099

I should have known that an Athearn steam engine from that era would be completely unconventional!



I think when I heard Athearn was going to do their first steam engine (I believe the Pacific), it was supposed to be rubber band drive. If it ever was, I don't recall seeing the insides. Also, if it was, it was "soon" replaced with a geared drive.

Ed



Country: USA | Posts: 1671 Go to Top of Page
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