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MichaelWinicki
USA
1209 Posts |
 Posted - 11/03/2009 : 19:15:49
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I did a search... Didn't find much.
Anyone have any experience doing these kits? |
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Dick Wroblewski
USA
140 Posts |
Posted - 11/03/2009 : 19:27:04
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I've done Mid-States Bank, the Diner, City Scoop and the Hardware. The stainless steel is more difficult to work with than plastic or wood, but the finished product is exceptionally crisp and clean looking, IMHO. I bought the separate lighting kit for the Diner and it looks pretty neat in a somewhat darkened room.
Dick Wroblewski |
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MichaelWinicki
USA
1209 Posts |
Posted - 11/03/2009 : 19:41:27
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quote:
Originally posted by Dick Wroblewski
I've done Mid-States Bank, the Diner, City Scoop and the Hardware. The stainless steel is more difficult to work with than plastic or wood, but the finished product is exceptionally crisp and clean looking, IMHO. I bought the separate lighting kit for the Diner and it looks pretty neat in a somewhat darkened room.
Dick Wroblewski
Thank you Dick... When you say more difficult, can you quantify that even more?
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nkalanaga
USA
3272 Posts |
Posted - 11/03/2009 : 22:17:14
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My only experience with stainless steel was wire, but it's almost impossible to glue. I tried some "stainless steel" solder, guaranteed to hold, and it just ran off. It was too fragile to twist the ends together, so I finally made my own crimp connectors. The wire was guy wires on catenary poles, so they needed insulators anyway, and K&S 1/32 inch brass tube was about the right size. Loop the wire around the pole, feed both ends through the tube, add a dab of past flux, and slide the tube onto the flux. Crimp it tight with pliers, then fill the tube with regular solder. With the wire crimped in and surrounded with solder it can't pull out.
That won't work on a structure, so unless it has tabs, I can't imagine what one would use to assemble it. |
N. Kalanaga
Be well. |
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Dick Wroblewski
USA
140 Posts |
Posted - 11/03/2009 : 22:39:17
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By more difficult, I meant that the removal of "sprues" or whatever they might be called in a metal model required a fresh (and small) file and, at times, almost some muscle. I also needed to be careful when bending the corners, because a sloppy bend was difficult to correct from a visual standpoint. I built these models a few years ago but I don't remember any unusual problems in gluing them. I did use CA and I remember that they had tabs.
Painting them required a minimum of two coats (I brushed, not airbrushed) because the first coat tended to slide off a little bit. I was using Polly S paints.
Dick Wroblewski
Dick Wroblewski |
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peteski
USA
1648 Posts |
Posted - 11/03/2009 : 22:42:30
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Stainless steel structures are more difficult to build than plastic because the material is stiffer and that makes things difficult especially on the Diner kit where walls have to be curved. Gluing is also more difficult since solvent glues do not work. Best glues to use are 5-minute epoxy and CA (super) glue. Most of those structures have tabs to align parts so gluing is not difficult.
As far as the Diner kit is concerned it looks very realistic because just like the 1:1 prototype - it is made from stainless steel. |
Peteski |
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nkalanaga
USA
3272 Posts |
Posted - 11/04/2009 : 01:31:14
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| Gluing with tabs probably would be easier than gluing wires. The only metal structure I've tried was brass, and I soldered it... |
N. Kalanaga
Be well. |
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Chris333
3770 Posts |
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peteski
USA
1648 Posts |
Posted - 11/04/2009 : 04:12:05
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| I never had any luck soldering steel unless I used acid flux. Otherwise the solder doesn't properly wet steel. |
Peteski |
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Any Opinions On Micro Structures by Miller Eng?
