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PBoilermaker
USA
179 Posts |
 Posted - 11/16/2008 : 01:25:11
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I'm looking to get some Kato diesels stripped via media blasting (baking soda?). I don't have a rig, but does anyone know of a custom painter who would be able to do this for a reasonable fee?
Mike |
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Ike the BN Freak
330 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2008 : 01:54:50
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| With Kato units you can use 91% alcohol to remove the paint, and the Kato paint isn't that thick that if you don't get all of it, you won't notice when you do a repaint |
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therudycometh
USA
377 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2008 : 03:51:19
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| I agree. I suggest not using conventional paint strippers (even if they're "safe for plastic"), as it only took one bad experience with two Kato GP35's to teach me to use something else. The stripper takes off some of the paint and a lot of the plastic...... |
-Rudy Garbely
http://rudystrains.com
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Bobby
USA
102 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2008 : 09:14:20
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Kato paint will be removed with 91% alcohol as mentioned by the other members, but it don't come off as easily and Atlas, P2K or new Athearn paint (which comes off in minutes).
Let the shell sit for at least 24 hours and scrub off with an old toothbrush. It will slightly "stain" the plastic, but it does not hide the detail in any way at all.
Even "blasting" the paint off, will still leave the "staining" effect of the paint on the plastic. |
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rrgeekdev
Canada
315 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2008 : 09:53:58
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What I do is place it in pure 100% real un-diluted Pine Sol for about 12 hours, scrub while in the Pine Sol, then wash and place in 91-99% rubbing alcohol for 24 hours.
This gets rid of everything but the haze it leaves on the plastic. A good primer coat takes care of that.
Alan
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Chris Webster
USA
518 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2008 : 10:24:34
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Mike,
Harbor Freight has a "Central Pneumatic Abrasive Blast Cabinet" that you might consider.
In HF's last sale flyer (received via snail mail), it was listed as "Lot No. 42202" and was selling for $119.99. The flyer also had a "15% off one item" coupon on the back, so it would have cost $102.11 plus tax.... assuming you could get of the store without buying anything else! Unfortunately, that coupon expired on 11/10, but their sales and coupon mailings seem to reoccur all the time.
--
Chris Webster
http://www.speakeasy.org/~cwebster
quote:
Originally posted by PBoilermaker
I'm looking to get some Kato diesels stripped via media blasting (baking soda?). I don't have a rig, but does anyone know of a custom painter who would be able to do this for a reasonable fee?
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PBoilermaker
USA
179 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2008 : 14:56:44
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Thanks for all of the input gentlemen. I have tried the 91%+ alcohol and straight Pine-Sol routes, but the effects were less than stellar. In the case of a Kato Bi-level commuter car that sat in solution for less than 24 hours, the shell began to split and crack all over the place (with alcohol). Tried Chameleon, got the same result...splitting/cracking and incomplete paint removal after about 18 hours. Pine sol didn't seem to work on the bi-level paint. Perhaps it is the thinner plastic of the bi level shells, but I have never seen a shell just start to split like this.
On the plus side, Chameleon did a decent job on some Kato locomotive shells, but it was very laborious. I had one dynamic hatch spring a crack, but the shells look to be in excellent shape structurally. Not sure what Kato uses for paint, but their base coats are fused with the ABS.
I have heard that media blasting Kato shells works without the splitting/cracking issues encountered with solvents. |
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AustralianTerrier
USA
1091 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2008 : 18:19:58
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I have the Harbor Freight blast cabinet. I use glass beads as my media. It works wonders to strip brass and plastic models. You do need to dial down the psi to keep from vaporizing your model.
The biggest problem with the blast cabinets is you need a compressor with a decent CFM. Even at only 30 psi it doesn't take long for a compressor to have to kick in and this is where the CFM's are important. I use a hard wired 230 volt single phase belt driven compressor with about a thirty or forty gallon tank. It does "ok" but even for model work I'd prefer to have a larger 230 volt compressor.
The air distribution system in my shop is piped with black iron and thick wall copper. Just before the blast cabinet, I have two water traps and a pressure regulator. You MUST have clean DRY air or your gun in blast cabinet will clog up and you'll get moisture in your media. Not good.
I also use a large bagged blast cabinet dust collector. Even with the dust collector the plexiglass lid's seals lets a fair amount of media leak out. These cabinets are really messy and I would never put one in my home. You'll be cleaning for eternity and still have residue. My home is somewhat connected to a former service station. I own both the house and the former gas station. I keep my blast cabinet in the service bay, where a little more grit won't bother anything.
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Jim
Jim Becker
Clintonville, WI
Milwaukee Road-In the mid to late 1960's to May 1, 1971
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Chris Webster
USA
518 Posts |
Posted - 11/23/2008 : 11:30:43
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quote:
Originally posted by AustralianTerrier
Just before the blast cabinet, I have two water traps and a pressure regulator. You MUST have clean DRY air or your gun in blast cabinet will clog up and you'll get moisture in your media. Not good.
Bob,
Are you using typical moisture traps sold by the airbrush companies or something else?
--
Chris Webster
http://www.speakeasy.org/~cwebster |
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AustralianTerrier
USA
1091 Posts |
Posted - 11/23/2008 : 16:31:17
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Name is Jim not Bob....but whatever just don't call me late for dinner
My traps for the blast cabinet are from Eastwood Company a body shop supply house. The regulator is a Sears Craftsman. Sears regulators are very well constructed and you can really pinpoint your psi's.
Before the traps I have a ball valve to shut off air to the water traps. I leave the compressor on 24 hours a day, seven days week. It only pumps up without use about twice a week. My system is fairly tight. Then the air flows into the water traps. After the traps I have a line with a quick disconnect for 90 to 100 psi. I use this for pumping up tires, impact wrench, etc.. After the tee is the regulator. After the regulator is another tee with a quick disconnect. This is the line that feeds the blast cabinet. At the lowest part of the piping is another ball valve. This allows the pipes to be blown down and get more moisture out of the pipes.
For air brushing I have again double water traps, a seperate regulator and a blow down controlled by a ball valve. For the air brush I use Sears Craftsman water traps and regulators. Sears traps are very good. I use a 110 volt Campbell Hausfeld 15 gallon compressor for paint work. |
Jim
Jim Becker
Clintonville, WI
Milwaukee Road-In the mid to late 1960's to May 1, 1971
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misty
537 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2008 : 11:53:57
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| talk to me off line if you would still like some done.[:-angel] |
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steel_tiger1
USA
350 Posts |
Posted - 12/07/2008 : 19:07:59
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| Kato uses a type of ink for paint. So it is really not paint. |
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